One of the best things about traveling abroad is getting to experience the culture, customs, and traditions of different places. This doesn’t have to be limited to just sightseeing; your lodging and accommodations can reflect cultural traditions as well.
To get a real sense of Japanese culture, one of the best places to stay is a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. This post will explore what it is like to stay in a ryokan and what sets that experience apart from staying in other types of hotels. I love ryokan, and staying in one is a great way to experience Japan through a cultural lens.
Table of Contents
A Brief History
The origin of the ryokan can be traced back to the 700s. They were initially set up as resting houses for people traveling through Japan back when transportation and facilities were not as developed as they are today. Ryokan provided these travelers with shelter so they did not have to sleep outdoors in harsh weather conditions. Many were placed along the commonly traveled Tokaido Road, which connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto.
Intro to Ryokan
There is no one-size-fits-all ryokan classification; they run the gamut of very traditionally Japanese to more Western-inspired, centuries old to newly built, one guest room to many guest rooms, and budget to luxury.
Many ryokan are family owned, with all members of the family helping out in some capacity. Each generation of the family is trained to continue the duty of maintaining the ryokan. Some of these families have been running their ryokan for centuries!
Ryokan reflect the important Japanese concept of omotenashi, which is the special brand of hospitality one receives in Japan. Because of this, you will feel truly cared for staying at one of these accommodations, almost like you are part of the family. To give you an example, it is not uncommon for staff to bow when you enter the lobby, and they will often bow and wish for your safety when you leave.
Checking In
Check-in for ryokan is usually around 2:00 or 3:00 p.m. The staff will greet you and present you with paperwork to confirm details about your stay. Make sure you have your passport for verification.
Next, the staff will provide you with a pair of slippers for walking around the inn and a separate pair for the bathroom. Guests are usually asked to leave their shoes in the entryway called a genkan at the front of the ryokan.
The staff will then give you a tour of the ryokan, showing you the facilities like the public baths (more on those later) and letting you know their opening and closing times, the dining area where meals will be served (if not privately in your room; more on that later as well), and any other amenities offered.
Once you reach your room, the staff will explain the layout and sleeping arrangements and will supply you with robes called yukata and an obi belt you can wear while walking around the inn, to the public baths, and in the dining area. (This is one of my favorite parts; yukata are so comfortable to wear, and each ryokan uses different fabric patterns. The fabrics are usually carefully chosen by staff to reflect the feel of the ryokan.)
Room Layout
Since ryokan vary from budget to high-end, traditional to Western-inspired, the room layouts vary as well. Rooms are usually quite minimalistic to match traditional Japanese aesthetics. Traditional rooms have woven straw tatami mat floors, but some modern ryokan rooms have carpet or wood floors. Windows may be glass or shoji screens made of paper. Doors might be ones you open and close with a knob, thick sliding doors, or shoji screens.
A low table called a zataku and floor cushions or legless chairs called zaisu will usually be in the center of the room. These get pushed aside at night to make room for the sleeping arrangements. Paper lamps will be set around the room for lighting. There may also be some ceiling lighting as well. Most ryokan also have a thermos of tea or water with a cup for each guest.
Larger rooms may have a tokonoma, which is a raised alcove for art, hanging scrolls, or flower arrangements.
In traditional ryokan, closets are where the bedding is stored. There may be an additional closet for clothing or luggage, or there may be a rod with hangers somewhere else in the room. The next section will go into more detail about the bedding.
Sleeping Arrangements
If the room is more Western-inspired, it will probably have bed frames, mattresses, and sheets already set up.
If it is a traditional Japanese ryokan, you will be sleeping on futon mattresses that are laid out on the floor. They will probably not be set up when you arrive; instead, you pull the mattresses, sheets, blankets, and pillows out from the closet and set them up when you are ready to sleep. In some places, the ryokan staff will set them up for you. In the morning, you fold up the futon and bedding and store it in the closet. This is done to create space in the room during the day.
If you are not accustomed to sleeping on the floor, sleeping on a futon may feel a bit strange at first, but it doesn’t take too long to adjust. In my experience, it feels quite wonderful to sleep on one. If the mattress feels a bit too thin, you may be able to request an extra one to layer over it.
Toilets & Bathing Facilities
Toilets
Toilets may be shared by all guests or guests staying on the same floor, or they may be private and attached to your room. It is common in Japan to have the toilet separately in one room and the bath or shower in another.
Bathing Facilities
Ryokan strive to give guests the ultimate relaxing stay, and this is reflected in their bathing facilities. Most ryokan have communal baths utilizing either tap water or water directly from hot springs called onsen. Onsen water contains minerals and is lauded for its healing properties. Either way, a hot bath feels wonderful after a long day of traveling. Your muscles will feel totally relaxed afterward.
The layout of the communal bathing areas varies. They are usually separated by gender, or there may be private family-style tubs you can rent if you have children or just want some privacy. Some baths have views of amazing mountain or ocean vistas. Some have one large tub or multiple tubs that vary in water temperature. There is usually one tub filled with cold water you can pour on yourself in case you feel overheated.
Some ryokan have special outdoor baths called rotemburo where you can relax surrounded by nature. Higher-end ryokan may offer private rotemburo baths attached to your room.
There are also ryokan that provide private baths or showers in your room in addition to public bathing facilities. They will list the details on their websites.
Bathing Etiquette
It is customary to leave your clothes in the changing room cubbies or lockers and then go into the bathing area naked. Swimsuits are usually not allowed. If you are not accustomed to this, it may feel nerve-wracking at first, but you get used to it quickly. It is much easier if you familiarize yourself with Japanese bathing etiquette beforehand. Keep in mind that photos are strictly prohibited.
Before entering the baths, you are required to clean yourself at one of the washing stations that includes a stool for sitting, a showerhead or bucket for water, and soap and shampoo. The floor beneath will have a drain. You can then enter the baths. If you have long hair, make sure you tie it up first so your hair does not touch the bathwater.
Some people will wash themselves, soak in the bath for a few minutes, wash themselves again, and then soak in the bath for a longer period of time. Enjoy it however you like!
Note: Because tattoos were once associated with gangs in Japan, some public baths and hot springs do not allow visitors who have tattoos. Make sure you check the tattoo policy of the ryokan beforehand.
Dining
Dining at a ryokan is one of the best parts of the stay. Many ryokan offer meal plans for guests that include breakfasts and dinners. Upon check-in, the staff will either tell you what time meals are served or will ask you to pick what time you would like to have breakfast/dinner.
Private & Communal Dining
Some ryokan will give guests the option of having meals in a communal dining hall or served privately in their rooms. If you choose to dine privately, an attendant will bring each course to your room and will display that special brand of omotenashi hospitality by being attentive to you and your group’s needs throughout the entire meal. If you choose to dine in a communal setting, there will usually be a few attendants, but one in particular will be assigned to your table.
I have experienced both private and communal dining in a ryokan, and I have to say I prefer the communal dining hall style. Everyone gets to wear the beautiful yukata robes they were provided upon check-in, and it feels nice to be among other travelers. You may even make a new friend or two! Plus, some dining halls have beautiful views of the surrounding area.
Kaiseki Ryōri
The most popular form of dining at a ryokan is kaiseki ryōri where the chef decides the menu for you and multiple courses are served one by one in a specific order. You may get a list of the order the courses will be served in, and an attendant will most likely explain each plate as it is served to you.
Very important note: If you have dietary restrictions, make sure you ask the ryokan before booking if they are able to accommodate them. Some ryokan are unable to change their meal offerings. I’m a vegetarian, and a few ryokan I looked up were unable to provide vegetarian meal options. Keep this in mind as you are booking your accommodations.
Surrounding Area
Since ryokan are all about providing guests with a relaxing stay, their surrounding areas are often quite lovely. There may be a Japanese style garden in the front or back of a ryokan, or it may be surrounded by forests of bamboo and maple trees. Sometimes ryokan are located in the middle of the city close to popular attractions and will be within walking distance of historic sites. Traditional ryokan are often nestled among buildings exhibiting traditional Japanese architecture.
Payment
Ryokan commonly charge per person as opposed to altogether. If a ryokan lists a room price as 7900 yen, that may be what it costs per guest to stay in it. In that case, the room would cost 15,800 yen if it was reserved for two guests.
Make sure you check with your ryokan to confirm what types of payment they accept. Some are cash only, some accept certain credit cards, some you can pay for in advance, and some you can pay for upon checking in.
Certain taxes may be added to your bill. Some ryokan offering hot springs will add an onsen tax to each night of your stay.
The price of a ryokan stay varies greatly depending on whether you are staying in a budget or luxury ryokan, whether you have a meal plan, and whether you are doing communal or private dining.
Curfews
Keep in mind that some ryokan have curfews, usually between 10:00 p.m. – 12:00 a.m. Staff will lock the entrance for security purposes, so if you want to stay out later, you need to make a request with the staff to see if it is possible.
Final Thoughts
Staying in a ryokan is a wonderful way to experience Japanese culture. Some of my favorite travel memories come from ryokan stays. The attentive care and hospitality make you feel right at home. The food is delicious. Wearing a yukata robe around the inn is fun. The public baths and onsen are so nice to relax in after a long day of activities. Overall, it is a great experience. If you stay in one, I hope you have a fantastic and relaxing time!
(All photos taken by Clara Juliette)
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Clara hopes to share her love of exploring cultures and inspire others through the power of storytelling. In addition to writing and travel, she loves psychology, nature, green tea, and cats.