Guide to Shinjuku, Tokyo: Neon Lights, Karaoke, Quirky Shopping, & Unique Dining

Tokyo cityscape view

There is a reason Shinjuku is such a well-traveled destination in Tokyo. I must confess that I avoided it on my first two trips to Japan, thinking it was too touristy or too expensive or too unsafe (the red light district is there, after all). I was wrong. Fortunately, I rectified this on my third trip to Japan. The minute I set foot in Shinjuku, I fell in love. I was enthralled by its serene beauty in the daylight and its electricity at night. On my last night in Tokyo, I wanted to stay there and just linger in the glow of the neon lights and the throngs of people. Shinjuku gives off a special energy.

Here are some of the places you can explore, the fun activities you can do, the quirky things you can buy, and the unique dishes you can eat when visiting Shinjuku. I hope you enjoy this Tokyo gem as much as I did!

Activities

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

garden with pond and building
Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden is one of my favorite gardens in Tokyo. It is an expansive stretch of nature spanning more than 140 acres with lots of beautiful greenery throughout. You can wander around for hours admiring the natural scenery right in the heart of the big city. The property is arranged into three different gardens: a Japanese traditional garden, an English landscape garden, and a French formal garden.

pavilion in Japanese garden
Kyu-Goryo-Tei Pavilion

The Japanese garden contains plants native to Japan and is manicured in Japanese landscaping tradition. One of the most iconic parts of the garden, Kyu-Goryo-Tei, is located in this section. Also called the Taiwan Pavilion, Kyu-Goryo-Tei is a structure that was built by Japanese people living in Taiwan to commemorate Emperor Hirohito’s wedding.

Japanese garden
View from Kyu-Goryo-Tei Pavilion

The view of the Japanese garden looking out from Kyu-Goryo-Tei is lovely.

French garden with roses and sycamore trees
French Formal Garden

The English landscape garden has a wide, open field with tulip trees and flowering cherry trees in the springtime. This is a popular spot for events. A wood design expo was being held there during one of my visits. The French formal garden has a seasonal rose collection and a line of tall sycamore trees.

Karaoke

Karaoke in Japan is different from other places in the world. Instead of singing in front of a bunch of strangers in a crowded restaurant, you can gather a group of friends and rent private rooms where you can sing to your heart’s content.

The karaoke place I went to in Shinjuku was Pasela, which has multiple branches in Tokyo. This particular Pasela was in Kabukicho, which is considered Tokyo’s red light district, but I did not feel unsafe there at all. I don’t think I would have even realized I was in a red light district had I not seen a sign for Kabukicho.

Karaoke at Pasela Shinjuku
Karaoke at Pasela (yes, those are Spice Girls lyrics on the TV)

Our room at Pasela was equipped with a big TV and floor mats with tons of pillows around a large table. These rooms are quite high-tech – you can control the air temperature, the volume of the background music versus vocals, and all the songs can be browsed and digitally selected on the multiple iPad-like tablets on the table.

Mambo No. 5 karaoke playing on TV
No matter where you are in the world, it’s always a good time to sing Mambo No. 5.

There was a huge repository of songs in all languages on those tablets. You can sing everything from the Japanese Sailor Moon theme song to Mambo No. 5 to all of your favorite Disney tunes. As you sing them, videos play in the background while the words flash by in the foreground. The videos in the background are sometimes quite humorous.

Singing the Sailor Moon theme song while giant honey toast is served

Pasela is also known for its honey toast menu. These are giant loaves of bread that can be cut up into multiple sections for a group to eat. I could see why they were famous for it – the one we ordered was the biggest piece of toast I had ever seen! We were a group of seven people, and each one of us was able to have a big piece.

Once you lose your voice from singing too much, you can go back down to the lobby and pay. They will tally up how much you owe from the room rental and any food or drinks your group ordered.

Free Panoramic Views of Tokyo

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building has an indoor observation deck on its 45th floor with fantastic panoramic views of Tokyo’s cityscape. Admission is free, and all you have to do is hop on a super fast elevator once you arrive at the building. You can go in the daytime or nighttime, but I decided to go at night to see Tokyo all lit up.

Tokyo cityscape view
View from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

The views were truly breathtaking. You can see the city of Tokyo expand before you as you look through the massive windows. There are several areas with these giant lookout windows so you can see different vantage points of Tokyo. Each and every view is stunning.

And, if you still have to make some last-minute souvenir purchases, there are gift shop stands right in the middle of the 45th floor.

Shinjuku Station

It might seem odd to list a train station as an activity, but Shinjuku Station is no ordinary train station. With 36 platforms, over 200 exits, and numerous shopping malls and department stores built into it, Shinjuku Station is a gargantuan structure with its own distinct personality. It is an important transportation hub because of the many railways it serves, connecting Tokyo to many different cities in Japan. It even won a Guinness World Record in 2011 for being the world’s busiest station.

You will really get a sense of how populous Tokyo is when walking through it. Everyone hustles and bustles through this station with a brisk pace. I had no time to pause to take photos of it. I am not a big fan of large crowds, but it felt kind of cool to be part of the flow of travelers coming and going. Like I was a Tokyo-dwelling commuter like many others in the station.

My best advice is to try to figure out which platform you need to go to beforehand, or, if you are arriving there, which exit you need to take to make sure you don’t get lost in the shuffle!

Shopping

Shibuya might be the favored shopping destination for Japanese fashion, but Shinjuku has plenty of cool and quirky shopping destinations to peruse too.

ITS’DEMO

Sailor Moon makeup
Moon Prism Power, MAKE-UP! (literally)

One store I knew I had to check out while I was in Japan was ITS’DEMO, a makeup and accessories store that often does collaborations with beloved brands and franchises. Before my last visit. I had read they were doing makeup collaborations with two franchises I love: Pokémon and Sailor Moon. I vowed not to leave Japan without checking it out.

There are several ITS’DEMO stores in Japan, but the one I went to was inside Shinjuku Station’s Mylord shopping mall. The store was quite narrow but spanned three floors and was packed with items.

Sailor Moon makeup
Sailor Moon makeup items

Sailor Moon was one of my absolute favorite shows growing up, and I used to run around my house pretending I was wielding her magical items. To see a whole line of cosmetics shaped like those magical items made my inner child beam with happiness. I bought the blush shaped like the Moon Crystal Power brooch, lipstick shaped like the Moon Stick, pencil eyeliner shaped like the Transformation Pen, and liquid eyeliner shaped like the Heart Rod. Each item is so cute!

I also bought lip balm featuring designs of the Pokémon Charmander, Squirtle, and Bulbasaur. If you love quirky makeup and accessory collaborations, stop by ITS’DEMO.

Flying Tiger

litter scooper with cat ears and tail
Litter scooper with cat ears and a tail from Flying Tiger

I couldn’t forgo bringing my cat a souvenir back from Japan. But what to get the feline who already has it all? Fortunately, I was in luck. I walked into Flying Tiger and found the cute litter scooper pictured above.

Flying Tiger is a store originally from Copenhagen, Denmark, and it is one of the quirkiest and most charming stores I’ve ever set foot in. It is full of colorful odds and ends. The items seem quite random, but that’s all part of its charm. They sell pool floats, watermelon-shaped tableware, heart-shaped headphones, and unconventional looking school supplies, among many, many other items. And cat-shaped litter scoopers.

The brand’s website says their stores are “a playground of fun,” and I think that sums up Flying Tiger quite nicely.

Muji

I often see Muji referred to as Japan’s version of Ikea. The chain of home goods stores is known for its minimalistic furniture and household goods. The simplicity in their designs is a great reflection of Japanese aesthetics, some of which were probably influenced by Zen principles. If you love well-organized stores (or want to dream of how you might one day outfit the home of your dreams), take a peek into Muji.

Department Stores

Shinjuku has a plethora of department stores selling affordable or luxury goods. Isetan, Lumine, and Takashimaya are three that sell international and domestic luxury brands (think Burberry, Chanel, Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood, etc.). Isetan and Takashimaya have food markets and specialty grocery stores on their basement floors so you can pick something up to eat back at your hotel.

Street at night in Shinjuku, Tokyo
Bicqlo on the left

Bicqlo is a store that combines all the wares of Bic Camera with the apparel and accessories of Uniqlo. You can get affordable clothing AND electronics all in one place!

Dining

For Sweet Treats: Okashi no Kuni no Alice Café

It’s no surprise that Japan and I both love Alice in Wonderland-themed things. I had a great time dining at Alice in a Labyrinth, the Alice in Wonderland-themed restaurant in Ginza, so I was pleasantly surprised when I went searching for a quick bite to eat in Shinjuku Station and stumbled upon the adorable Okashi no Kuni no Alice Café. The name roughly translates to “Alice in a Land of Sweets.” Note that this is not one of the two more well-known Alice in Wonderland-themed restaurants in Shinjuku (Alice in a Picture Book and Alice in a Magical Land), rather it is a petite and more cozy café located on the 7th floor of the Shinjuku Mylord shopping mall within Shinjuku Station.

Diorama of an Alice in Wonderland scene made out of frosted cookies
Diorama of an Alice in Wonderland scene made out of frosted cookies

I was already lured in by the storefront. There was a refrigerated display of gorgeous cakes and a diorama of the Mad Hatter’s tea party made of out frosted cookies. Cookies made up the frame of a house, a clock, Alice’s signature blue and white dress, and heart-shaped chairs around a table that had teeny tiny teacups and teapots on it. The inside of the restaurant was just as charming with a cream, pastel pink, and powder blue color scheme.

cake shaped like the White Rabbit
Cake shaped like the White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland

I had the cutest slice of strawberry and vanilla cake made to look like the White Rabbit served on a plate with Alice’s profile.

Cup of tea with hourglass and a spoon with the queen's crown
Cup of tea with hourglass and a spoon with the queen’s crown

The cup of tea I had was served on a saucer with heart-shaped cutouts. The stirring spoon had a queen’s crown on the handle. To continue the theme, I was given an hourglass to time how long my tea needed to steep. I loved these extra touches!

For Healthier Bites: Sarabeth’s

Located on the 2nd floor of the Lumine 2 shopping mall connected to Shinjuku Station is Sarabeth’s, an outpost of the restaurant that originated in New York City in the 1980s. It serves Western-style dishes like soups, salads, sandwiches, and burgers and is especially known for its Eggs Benedict dishes and its fluffy French toast. It is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

plate with avocado, beets, carrots, and tofu
Vegetarian Buddha Bowl from Sarabeth’s

This restaurant is very vegetarian-friendly and has several menu items for those going meatless. I had the Buddha Bowl, which came with avocado, tofu, chickpeas, and pickled beets among other veggies. It was one of the best vegetarian meals I’ve had.

heart-shaped French toast with strawberries
Heart-shaped French toast

When I dined there, they were offering an affordable dinner and dessert combo, so I ordered the deliciously thick and fluffy French toast with strawberries in addition to the Buddha Bowl. The two pieces were served in the shape of a heart – how cute!

Note: I’ve heard it can get crowded during breakfast, so plan your visit accordingly. I went for an early dinner and did not have to wait for a table.

For All-You-Can-Eat Goodness: Shabu Shabu at Nabezō

One of my travel buddies really loves the shabu shabu style of Japanese cooking in which thin slices of meat and vegetables are boiled together in large pots filled with broth. The name shabu shabu comes from the swishing sound the ingredients make as you stir them. Diners are provided with pots containing the broth(s) of their choice and then cook their own meal at the table. Most shabu shabu restaurants are not vegetarian friendly, but if you are dining with a large group, it is possible that you can have one pot for cooking vegetables and one for cooking meat.

Nabezō, a restaurant on the 8th floor of the Shinjuku Takano building across from the Isetan department store in Shinjuku Sanchome, has a fantastic vegetable bar with a wide array of veggies. Starting at 2600 yen, they offer all-you-can-eat meat and vegetables within 80 minutes. The daily tea blend is included in the course. The meal ends with an ice cream buffet with flavors that change out. When I dined there, they had delicious green tea and ume plum ice cream.

Note: Shabu shabu places are popular dining spots for groups, so it is best to make reservations in advance.

For Shared Plates: Izakayas

Tokyo has a multitude of izakayas, restaurants where diners order small plates to share among one another. Menu items include dishes like yakitori chicken skewers, cold tofu (hiyayakko), octopus, grilled fish, karaage fried chicken, pickled veggies (tsukemono), and gyoza dumplings. You can usually find a few vegetarian dishes. The drink menu will have many sake, shochu, and beer options. Many izakayas offer nomihōdai all-you-can-drink options or tabehōdai all-you-can-eat options at a set price within a certain dining time limit.

You may be used to the polite quietness of public spaces in Japan, but izakayas are a bit different. These are establishments where colleagues go to blow off steam after a long day at work, college students gather to celebrate a friend’s birthday, or friends simply gather to enjoy a fun night out. So izakayas may seem a bit louder and rowdier than other restaurants in Japan.

One izakaya chain I like is Tsukada Nojo, which specializes in farm-to-table food with a focus on cuisine from Japan’s Kyushu region. You can find it and many other izakayas in Shinjuku.

Final Thoughts

Streets of Shinjuku, Tokyo at night
Shinjuku lit up at night

I had shied away from Shinjuku on my first couple of trips to Japan because I had the preconceived notion that it was too touristy and not enough of an authentic travel experience. But the first time I walked through its lit up streets, I was totally enamored by the end of the day. Sure, it can be touristy in some places, but there is a reason why travelers flock to this fascinating Tokyo locale. There is so much to see and do here, if the perpetually large crowds are any indication. Whether it’s unique dining, shopping sprees, bright nightlife, or beautiful nature, there is something in Shinjuku for every traveler. Just make sure you figure out how to navigate Shinjuku Station!

(All photos taken by Clara Juliette)

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